This is a high impedence phantom powered balanced preamplifier designed to make piezo contact microphones sound awesome although it could be used for any high impedence source such as guitar pickups. It takes a balanced high impedence input and produces a balanced low impedence output with around 20dB of gain using just 12 components (8 with some caveats). If you use SMT components it fits inside a male XLR jack shell using the PCB below.

XLR 1,2&3 are the outputs and connect to pins 1-3 of a male XLR plug. Pin 1 is ground the other two are the 'hot' balanced differential outputs. IN1 and IN2 are the inputs from your high impedence source, in the case of a piezo element that's the two wires connected to it. GND is the connection for the screen of the cable that goes to the piezo element. The element itself should be surrounded by a grounded shield such as a piece of copper foil. If you are using an unshielded piezo element then you may prefer to treat it as a single ended source and ground one side which will reduce hum pickup but sacrifice 6dB of gain. The cable to the preamp should ideally be short or the capacitance of the cable will start to affect frequency respsonse although actually I suspect that with it's balanced input it will actually work perfectly fine with cables up to a few metres.
To actually use it plug the XLR plug into a mixing desk (via an XLR cable) and turn on the phantom power. Prod the piezo element, you should hear something. Now go stick it to stuff round the house and you should hear many things; strange things.
If you plan on using this for a guitar then 12dB of gain (you loose 6dB by grounding one side) is likely to be too much in which case you could add source resistors (between the source of each FET and the current source). A pair of 2k resistors drop the gain to about 6dB, 3k resistors give 3dB. If you are using a single ended source like a guitar then tie one input to ground - the differential amplifier will still give much better performance than a single fet because it's output is balanced so hum rejection should be excellent.
It's design is at least slightly novel as far as I know and is the result of a lot of fiddling around with circuit simulators and breadboarded prototypes. The credit for the basic idea of putting a FET in a plug goes to J. Till.
It's basicly a standard FET differential amplifier with a couple of tricks to keep component count and noise down and input impedence up. It takes advantage of the fact that phantom power is fed to the balanced XLR inputs via pair of closely matched 6.81k resistors. These resistors are used directly as the drain resitors in the differential amplifier rather than the more usual method of connecting an additional pair of matched resistors to each line to create a +48V supply rail and then feeding the signal back through DC blocking capacitors. Since the mixing desk already blocks DC at it's inputs it's not a problem that the signal is floating at +45V or so.
Q1 and Q2 are differential pair. Q3 is a current source to improve CMRR by reducing the effect of Q1-Q2 not being precisely matched, this could be replaced with a current regulator diode (if you can source one) or a 22k resistor if you accept reduced performance (+22dB common mode noise for 10% matched FETs in theory, in practise it doesn't seem to make much difference). Together with the circuitry in the mixer they make a differential amplifier. The gain of the amplifier depends somewhat on the transconductance of the FETs themselves since it operates largely without feedback
C2 and C3 are DC blocking capacitors to stop the piezo element floating at ~25V, if the piezo is insulated you can dispense with them but they're so small that they're worth it for peace of mind - if the piezo touches a grounded object it'll create a huge bang which may hurt your speakers or your ears.
R1,R2,R5,R6 are the bias network for the fet inputs, R5 and R6 feed some of the output back to the input which increases gain and input resistance. R5 and R6 linearise the outputs of the FETs by applying a signal of Vgs/2 to the gate which both increases gain and reduces distortion. FETs without feedback mostly introduce 2nd harmonic distortion, if for some reason you _want_ this then increase R5 and R6 but if you increase it beyond about 10M you'll start to get some HF roll off.
C1 and R4 are a Zobel network to avoid oscillation in the mic cable. This idea came from Rod Elliott. If you plan on driving very long lengths of cable a pair of 220 Ohm resistors in series with the output would further reduce the risk of HF oscillations. If you do this they should be closely matched
Q1 and Q2 need to be a closely matched pair of N-channel FETs with an Idss of 1-2mA, a Vbr of at least 30V and low noise. This can either be a pair of separate devices (J201, 2N3819 etc.) matched by hand from a selection of devices or a single monolithic dual FET (2SK389, LSK389 etc. ). The latter offers significantly better performance but is more expensive and harder to source. FET matching can be done according to various methods, but I'd reccomend one like this which matches them by Vgs for a particular Id, usually 50uA or so.
My prototype was built using a pair of 2N3819s matched rather approximately by Idss to about 1mA and is very quiet using a shielded piezo element, but will pick up some hum if you touch the unshielded element, given that the hum pickup on a human can often be to the order of several volts thats not really surprising. Note that on paper the 2N3819 has too low a Vbr to work properly, although in practice things seem to be fine. YMMV.
The source resistor for the current source needs to be selected to give the correct quiescent current. I think that the optimum for most FETs is about 0.5mA per FET but it's actually rather uncritical. More current means more gain and less noise but reduces the common mode rejection. Anything between about 0.1mA and 0.5mA per FET is fine. For a J201 this means 500 - 1k, for 2N3819 about 1k - 2k. Since parts with a lowish Vgs are preferred for the differential pair you could use the ones with a higher Vgs for the current source.
This is a simulation of the preamp being fed by a typical piezo element which is represented by a voltage source in series with a 5nF capacitor, this is typical of a 15mm piezo disc. The FETs are matched to about 10%. It's driving a simulated 15m mic cable. As you can see the common mode gain (red line) is very low (about -80dB) and the differential mode gain (blue line) is about 20dB which is sufficient to get a decent signal from even very quiet sources (eg. footsteps on a concrete floor) without excessive noise from the pre-amps in the mixer. Frequency response is 20Hz - 30kHz (-3dB) but this is adjustable; gain at very low frequencies may be undesirable in which case you can reduce the values of R1,R2,R5 & R6 or use the low-cut button common on many mixers

You'll need to make a breakout box containing some 9V batteries to provide power, a pair of 6k resistors and some DC blocking caps. You can select the current that through the FETs when you build the device, if you plan on running it off a battery (or from a battery powered device with phantom power) you may wish to reduce the quiescent current from the normal ~1mA, to about 0.1mA or less to increase battery life. This will increase noise by a few dB but that's unlikely to be a problem.

My brother didn't think I could fit it inside an XLR plug. He was wrong. This is a tiny (11.5mm x 18mm, or about half the size of a postage stamp) PCB designed to fit inside a Neutrik XX series plug. The tab that sticks out of the pcb is going to be epoxy glued into a recess in the connector, holding the PCB firmly in place. Here's how it looks in situ.

This design is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 3.0 Unported License, same as the Arduino and some other open-hardware projects. This means that you are free to make you own contact mics based on this design so long as :
I'd very much appreciate it if you e-mailed me any improvements to the design and I'll put the files up here. In due course I'll try to set up some sort of repository so that as people make cool improvements to the design it can be contributed back to the community.
The PCBs were originally designed with Kicad, a frankly rather impressive open source schematic capture and PCB design program available for Linux, OSX and Windows. It produces files that look like EAGLE flies in that they have the same extension but do not be fooled, they are not EAGLE files. I also recommend QUCS as an excellent open source circuit simulation program.
Zach Poff has very kindly made a layout for through-hole components using EAGLE, which is probably better if you are a hobbyist. It doesn't fit into an XLR plug, obviously, but it's going to be a lot easier to make.
CM1 Version 0.3 -- QUCS Version, SMD
CM1 -- EAGLE version with through hole components by Zach Poff

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 3.0 Unported License.
The FET Preamp Cable - Inspiration for the preamp-in-a-cable idea
Elliott Sound Products - Lots of projects for the audio electronics hobbyist
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Can use with MR-1?
Can I use the phantom power from an MR-1 with this pre-amp? (BTW, I was the one that posted the question in your post about a contact mic that outperforms the standard.)
argitoth (At) gmail dotcom
Elan Hickler
Components for Pre-amp
N.B. I noticed other people had posted their e-mail address:
tlc141@hotmail.com
Thomas.
Components for Pre-amp
Hello there Alex,
I've been studying your website for quite some time now as I am following Leafcutter John's instructions on how to make a hydrophone. I have made everything else now apart from the pre-amp and like many other people who have commented on this thread it would be very helpful if you might be able to help me with the order codes for rapid so that I will be able to order the correct components. Really looking forward to hearing the results, I am sure they will be spectacular!
Many thanks,
Thomas.
Great Plans
Hi Alex,
I'd really like to have one of these preamps but I'm not able to understand that type of diagram. Would you possibly make me another one and sell it to me?
If you're interested just respond to this post.
Thanks man! I don't really understand what your post means but it looks like you put a lot of effort into it!
cheers,
gabriel
Preamp
Hi Alex,
nice work, thanks a lot! I was looking just for this! I'm trying to build different pickups for double basses and would need a decent pre. Can you either send me the eagle files or sell me some of your own boards (as i'd have to make a different piezo design from yours to fit the application)?
best titus
zuchtfisch"at"gmx.ch
BUg you for the pcb and eagle file
Hey. I really need the pcb and eagle file for this preamp. I'm going to use it in a platereverb I'm building.
Joachim.solborg@live.se
Contact mic preamp
hey Alex, I am also interested in building myself a pair of contact microphones using your piezo preamp circuit, but want to make sure I buy the best components for the circuit as I will be using them for recording unique sounds and non-traditional instruments/objects for studio as well as personal recordings. If there is any way you could also email me a list of components for the preamp circuit as well as which piezo discs you prefer, I would greatly, greatly appreciate it. Thanks Alex!
-David
david.evans.mcdonald@gmail.com
Contact mic preamp
hey Alex, I am also interested in building myself a pair of contact microphones using your piezo preamp circuit, but want to make sure I buy the best components for the circuit as I will be using them for recording unique sounds and non-traditional instruments/objects for studio as well as personal recordings. If there is any way you could also email me a list of components for the preamp circuit as well as which piezo discs you prefer, I would greatly, greatly appreciate it. Thanks Alex!
-David
david.evans.mcdonald@gmail.com
Eagle files bugging....
Howdy, I very much like the circuit in an XLR. I would also like to bug you for an eagle file as well. I could exchange some other designs in return.
thanks,
md(at)defenestrated(punt)org
Bugging you about eagle files
Hi there. I just breadboarded your preamp design and it's head-and-shoulders above the other circuits I've tried. Thanks for such a complete write-up. I'd like to build a few (stereo, quad!) so I'm thinking of etching a PCB, although I'm planning on using through-hole components (not in the XLR shell). It would be great to use your Eagle files as a starting point. Is it possible to post them (or email them)? Any plans to sell more CM-1 mics? (And if it's not a trade secret, are the CM-1 mics based on the MSI tabs? I've tried them with mixed results.)
Thanks again.
-Zach Poff
(z [at] zachpoff.com)
http://www.zachpoff.com
Pre amp questions......
Looks perfect, apart from one thing. Is it possible to make this for a 1/4" jack, rather than an XLR? I've been looking for something like this for ages now.
Thanks!
Piezo PreAmp
hello Alex, i'm very interested in building the Piezo Pre-Amp from your site and using it for a homemade hydrophone (like the one on Leafcutter John's website). the thing is i'm not totally sure what components i need to build the circuit, and which are best for the job? a list of the components needed for the pre-amp would help me greatly.
thankyou for sharing,
Jay (152655@bathspa.ac.uk)
Piezo preamp also disassembled
Hi Alex,
I'm very interested in receiving few of them, also disassembled that I can solder myself.
I've got 6 contact mics needing those boards.
Could you please contact me?
Many thanks.
Emanuele
sound*at*ecciproduzioni*dot*com