One of the weaknesses of the Catrike Speed, in the UK at least, is that there doesn't seem to be an off the shelf rack available - this page is intended to show what I did so that you can either copy it or use this general design.

Okay, here are a few photos of how my rack is arranged at the moment. The unique thing about it is that it can take more or less any pannier without having problems with interference with the seat stays or derailleur because it higher and further back than is possible with unmodified racks. I commute every day as well as tour using an Orlieb Office Bag Deluxe and a pair of  Ortlieb Bike Packer's. It is very strong - I have lugged bags of cement and even sat on it and I weigh about 65kg

It is a somewhat modified PUSH CC909S "Uni-Fit Alloy Carrier" (Push is a stupid name for a company that makes bike bits - enter "push bike" into google to see what I mean! Took me about 20 min. to find). It can be bought from Fisher outdoor Leisure and several other web retailers for around £25. The modifications are bending some pieces of 5/8" aluminium tubing as seen here, flattening the ends and drilling holes in them. Make sure not to create any stress points (nicks, dents, sudden changes of shape etc.) or you will get fatigue fractures :

[This is no longer recommended, see what happened below] And bending the rack supports from this shape:

to this shape - this was done using a mallet , some bits of wood and a vice and a lot of brute force - I'm guessing it's something like 7065-T6 because it's as tough as anything. This moves the whole rack back by about 4" and allows ordinary panniers to be used despite the small wheels.

This is the overall effect - note that there is plenty enough space under it to mount a pump (Specialised Air Force 4 - very good pump, pumps Presta and Schrader with no fiddling about, recommended) and a set of Specialised  'Pry Baby' tyre levers which are an innovative design that I cannot recommend enough - they make getting the tyres of those little rims easy. This is a good position because it is completely hidden from view (if the person is standing up - the rack is only at thigh level remember) by the top plate of the rack so it's unlikely to get stolen, it also keeps it dry. The foam doesn't make a very effective headrest, but it does stop you banging your head against it accidentally.

And one with an Ortlieb Office Bag Deluxe attached - they are excellent panniers, that one is nearly a year old and it looks like new, they are highly waterproof, it has an insert so it holds it's shape when empty and has a neat closure system. If i were to do it again I would buy a pair of Office bags rather than an office bag and an additional pair of 'touring' type panniers as the office bag is much more convenient because it is shaped rather than just being a big floppy bag and holds nearly as much.

In this photo you can also see my lock (on the seat stay, black thing) - a Specialized 'Wedlock'. This is small and convenient and unusual which means thieves don't have the tools for it - it can't be cut with bolt croppers and it can't be jacked. The only problem is that it is inclined to rattle, and it has a cylindrical key which means it can actually be picked in a few seconds, but most thieves aren't that sophisticated.

It Broke!

Well, everything breaks eventually - the above modification managed about 6 months of being grossly overloaded with groceries but eventually lodged a complaint by succumbing to fatigue, the nemesis of aluminium. It is not widely realised that aluminium has a finite fatigue life, if you repeatedly stress a piece of aluminium it will eventually fail, unlike steel which will last forever below a certain level of stress; this may mean it lasts 100,000,000,000 cycles but eventually it'll still break.

Fortunately they broke towards the end of term so I reverted to using my beater bike if I needed to carry luggage and fashioned some new mounts while I was at home. These were made from some ASTM 304 stainless steel stock and brazed and silver soldered together by my own good self with an oxy-acetylene torch, the bends were done round a former in the vice and took a lot of force. The ends were fishmouthed via a rather contrived milling setup using the toolpost of the lathe to hold the bar and then using an 8mm milling cutter held in a 3 jaw SC chuck. Same goes for the 'dropouts' at the ends. They were made without access to the bike or rack and I was dead chuffed that they fitted perfectly, particularly as they represent about two days work.

Hopefully these should last a very long time, they are a lot heavier than the first pair but also much more rigid. I could have done it better with access to some stainless steel tubing, but it's the best I could do with what I had.